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The Evolution of Fashion
by
Janet Reed

The 1910's: The Modern Period


This was the modern period because the Modernist movement in art, dance, and theater was launched. One of the most famous artists was Picasso who introduced Cubism. Serge Diaghilev introduced Europe to an avant-garde performance of modern choreography, revealing costumes, and unexpected music when he brought his Ballets Russes dance troupe to Paris. The so- named modern woman in America and Europe sought to break ties with the social confines of the 19th century. And Paul Poiret brought modernism to fashion.


Paul Poiret had a great influence on fashion and in many ways. Designers followed his lead with a corset-free empire-waist dress. The straight-line sillhouette was loose and comfortable allowing a woman to move freely. This would prove timely later in the decade when women began to drive a motor car.


The display of abundance that characterized The Gilded Age was shunned after the outbreak of World War I. While the U.S. did not enter until 1917, the mood in America was immediately directed to acts of good will to help our French allies. Once America entered the conflict, the war effort included victory gardens to export food to Europe and knitting gatherings to make socks, gloves, and sweaters for the soldiers.


Fashion direction from Paris halted as travel to Europe was curtailed and the couture houses faced increasing shortages of fabric and trimmings. Importation of novelty items and fancy goods soon declined in America resulting in dressmakers and homemakers forced to develop their own styling. Meanwhile, Coco Chanel was attracting attention to her wool jersey sweaters.


This was an important decade for menswear as the modern-day business suit was adopted - a white shirt, matching coat, vest, and trousers, and necktie with a four-in-hand knot. The United States implemented its standardized sizing system for menswear and opened large-scale production factories. Several high-profile strikes by union members occurred during the decade as workers fought for better working conditions and wages.


The city continued to attract more people. Office jobs were on the rise and the automobile industry in Detroit employed many workers. Ford's introduction of the moving assembly line would make a car affordable to many. The motor car brought significant changes to society as it offered a private form of transportation and more independence and freedom to be mobile. This reflected the social sentiment of the modern movement which was about unrestricted freedom.

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