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The Evolution of Fashion by Janet Reed
Napoleon's leadership on the battle- field earned praise from his country- men and he became the Emperor of France in 1804. He elevated the arts and French craftsmanship through the Napoleonic Expositions held in Paris which became the prototype for the world's fair. On display were the Jacquard loom, Lyon silks, watches, furniture, and other artistic goods for the world to see. His wife, Empress Joséphine, was beloved by France and the women in Europe and America copied her empire-waist dress style.
Meanwhile, England was the major producer of cotton and wool and the British women wore a muslin version of the empress' dress. Attention turned to Great Britain after the defeat of Napoleon. Beau Brummell introduced an ensemble composed of a tailored coat, pantaloons, and carefully tied cravat. It was a most spectacular time for menswear in history.

PART I: IMPERIAL FRANCE AND ENGLAND
Fashion leader Empress Joséphine of France
Empire waist dress; minimal undergarments
Napoleon defeated; Regency Period in Britain
Pantaloons replaced men's breeches/stockings
Beau Brummell "dandyism" in men's fashion
PART II: THE VICTORIA & ALBERT PERIOD
The Romantic Period; young Queen Victoria
First world's fair held in London
Calico roller printing developed in England
Fashion leader Empress Eugénie of France
Ultra wide skirt with layers of petticoats
French silk, Calais lace, and tulle popularized
PART III: FASHION BECOMES AN INDUSTRY
Cotton spinning mills began in America
Inventions: commercial knitting frame, syn- thetic dyes, sewing machine, paper patterns
Factory-made men's shirts, cloaks, hoop skirts
Dry goods, fancy goods, and department stores
PART IV: YOUNG AMERICA COMES OF AGE
Transcontinental railway system completed
Mail, telegraph, newspapers, magazines
Minstrel shows, circuses, ballroom dancing
Women's rights movement began
Civil War; Abraham Lincoln; slavery ended
Industrial titans amassed extreme wealth
PART V: CHARLES WORTH 'S INFLUENCE
Trendsetter for Europe and America
Official dressmaker to Empress Eugénie
Established the first French couture house

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The 19th Century (1800 - 1870)
Victoria was crowned as Queen of England at the age of eighteen marking the start of the Victorian Era. Her marriage to Prince Albert was a storied romance and they greatly influenced the sentiment for high morals, strong family ties, and love of country. Victoria dis- played with properness and femininity the enveloping nature of the full-skirted dress and accompanying shawl.
Empress Eugénie in France, however, radiated in her billowy gowns made in silk organdy, taffeta, and tulle. She was instrumental in propelling France's silk and lacemaking industries. Charles Worth became her sole dressmaker in 1864. His magnificent ball gowns for Eugénie attracted European royalty and aristocrats who visited his shop in Paris. What is now referred to as the French Couture was organized in 1868 and Worth's dressmaking establishment was the first couture house.
The Civil War was a period of sorrow and hardship, but America would rise up to become the greatest industrial nation. Pioneer businessmen saw opportunity in developing the abundant resources of oil, mineral deposits, forestry, and farming into major industries. A technology boom ignited textile manufacturing in New England, raw cotton harvesting in the South, and the first factory-made clothing using a sewing machine.
America was going through a major transformation of growth. The West was opening up to settlers, activists united to advance women's rights and abolish slavery, and the printing industry surged resulting in newspapers and magazines (including Godey's Lady's Book, the first fashion magazine in the U.S.). Department stores were the new place to shop while the Pullman Palace Car Co. made coast to coast luxury train travel possible by 1869.